Here today, gondola tomorrow... Escaping the Draylon hordes and branded billboards of this crumbling lagoon jewel can be daunting, but venture beyond the centre into her winding waterways and labyrinthine alleys, and you'll be handsomely rewarded. La Serenissima's richly brocaded sleeve hides historic wonders and artisanal swag galore. ////////////// LUXE Venice. Chic-issimo
